Stage 25 - Rabanal del Camino to Molinaseca

Where We Are Tonight:  Molinaseca               Miles Hiked Today:  15.5 (25.0 km)

Miles Hiked Overall: 350.1 (563.4 km)            Miles to Santiago: 134.9 (217.1 km)

Steps Taken Today: 50,321           Blister Count: Pam has even new ones today!

Spanish Word of the Day:  pies que duelen (feet that hurt)

What We Learned Today: After about 23K, our feet revolt.

Today we went to one of the highlights of the Camino....el Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross.)   This simple iron cross stands on a wooden pole and it has become one of the abiding symbols of the pilgrim way of St. James.  It is the tradition now that peregrinos put their own rock atop this huge pile - a rock many times brought from home.  The rocks can symbolize past hurts, problems, wrong doings,  etc. and by placing them on this pile, you can physically let go of these pains.  Sometimes the following prayer is said:

Lord, may this stone, a symbol of my efforts on the pilgrimage that I lay at the foot of the cross, weigh the balance in favour of my good deeds some day when the deeds of my life are judged.  Let it be so.

Peregrinos as a whole are really obsessed with rocks.   Granted, there are MILLIONS of them to choose from on the roads, paths and fields, but peregrinos are really taken with rocks in general.   They make piles of them on every Camino sign, they make them into rock people, and do just about anything else you can imagine with rocks.   Who knows why...nothing else to do while hiking? Each rock represents something to people as they place them on structures?  They feel artistic?   Who knows...but it does make for some interesting things to look for wherever you go.

We are starting to get back into the mountains.  It's nice to see some mountains in the distance as we walk and not just flat foreverness.  Here we are at the highest point that we will reach on the Camino  (1,515 m, 4970 feet).

This was a really long day...and tough.  As we went over the mountain, we ended up walking most of the day in a (usually,  mostly) dry river bed.   It was very rocky and difficult to walk in and maneuver through.   The rocks were slippery and loose.

We were so tired at the end of the day that this was the second time we just showered and went to bed...no dinner!

“When you're tired, exhausted and broken. When you feel you're getting nowhere and you've got nothing left to give......... look out at that view that surrounds you. Take it all in, and know that you've earned that! It’s yours! And wherever you go in life you will take that view with you and it will keep your moving.”

―Anonymous

Stage 24 - Astorga to Rabanal del Camino

Where We Are Tonight:  Rabanal del Camino            Miles Hiked Today: 12.9 (20.7 km)

Miles Hiked Overall: 334.5 (538.4 km)                      Miles to Santiago: 150.4 (242.1 km)

Steps Taken Today: 39,134                                      Blister Count: getting better?

Spanish Word of the Day: amigo/amiga (friend)

What We Learned Today:  People really do reconnect on the Camino! 

Today was a pretty mellow day of walking.  We are definitely getting back into hills.  The landscape is now kinda harsh - pine trees and shrubs.

We ran into a friend we walked with quite a bit from the first 2 days of the Camino but then somehow lost contact.   It was so awesome to see her again!  It's amazing how we will connect with people for a few days, lose contact with them, and then sometimes see them again.  The bond between peregrinos is something special, that's for sure.

We have finally met some more Americans.   Some states represented are NM, NY, GA, and FL.  I know there are others but I just can't remember.

The biggest news of the day is that today we reached our 1,000,000th step while on the Camino!!!  Can you even believe that?!  Now you know why our feet hurt so much!  In case your keeping score we ended the day at 1,017,189.  That's a lot of steps.  We only have about 450,000 left to get to Santiago.

 The Camino is always full of surprises.   The surprise today was that there was a guy who was letting people hold his falcon!  That was way cool!  Her name was Julie.

"There is nothing like walking to get the feel of a country. A fine landscape is like a piece of music; it must be taken at the right tempo. Even a bicycle goes too fast."

―Paul Scott Mowrer

Day 25 - A day of rest in Astorga

Where We Are Tonight:   Astorga (again)                   Miles Hiked Today: Just around town

Miles Hiked Overall: 321.7 (517.7 km)                      Miles to Santiago:  163.3 (262.8 km)

Steps Taken Today: 9,284                                        Blister Count: see yesterday

Spanish Word of the Day: museo  (museum)

What We Learned Today:  When there's a nice courtyard to sit in, take advantage.

Day 25 we took a day of rest (our second planned rest day) to recuperate at least a little bit after completing the first 2/3 of the Camino.  It was a much needed day to (mostly) rest our weary feet and bodies.

Editor note:  In case it is confusing, the rest of the posts are numbered 1-N based on days hiked, not counting rest days.  So, you will see posts for stage 1-13, followed by day 14 (the first rest day), followed by stages 14-23, followed by this post, which is the 25th day since they started.  The next post will be stage 24, the 24th day of hiking.

Today we got to play tourist and it was awesome!  We started the day with chocolate and churros (Astorga is famous for its chocolate) and cafe con leche and then toured the palacio built by Gaudi and the cathedral.  There was also a museum of the Camino in the palacio.

We spent a lot of time simply walking around this beautiful city...which we later thought was not so great since we were supposed to be resting after all!  We had a beautiful lunch and tasted some of the traditional cookies of the region .  Then K took a nap while P lounged in the wonderful back courtyard. 

We especially enjoyed sitting in one of the main plazas people watching.  Our restaurant for dinner was also off of one of these plazas and we spent maybe 2 hours slowly eating our food and watching everyone from small children playing with each other to old people out for an evening stroll.   We also watched the main clock tower (and the metal people dressed in traditional clothing of the area) strike the hour.  So fun to watch!

And to top it all off, my phone (it has an app that records steps) had the gall to tell me at the end of the day to "do more work today!"

"Rest. Sleep. Let your mind have the dream she desires and let your body have the peace she deserves."

―Unknown

Stage 23 - San Martín del Camino to Astorga

Where We Are Tonight:   Astorga                   Miles Hiked Today: 14.2 (22.8 km)

Miles Hiked Overall: 321.7 (517.7 km)            Miles to Santiago:  163.3 (262.8 km)

Steps Taken Today: 48,728                            Blister Count: same as yesterday

Spanish Word of the Day: sombra (shade)

What We Learned Today:  If it's good enough for Napoleon,  it's good enough for us.

It is rumored that Napoleon took this same route we're walking today during one of his many escapades to wreak havoc on the Spaniards.   He also perhaps stayed in the same hotel were staying in while in Astorga.  So we're channeling or inner Napoleon today!

Today was an interesting mixture of waking by the highway (which is loud and not as nice) and walking more in nature.

We walked for a time with a tour group from Australia.   Apart from the lively and fun conversation,  the best part was after awhile they said we should be in our way because they thought we were being held back by them.  They said, "You young girls look so fit!"  We got a good laugh out of that!   And we'll try to keep that in mind when we struggle with the next hill. 

We also met a guy who runs a place called La Casa de los Dioses.  He's an interesting guy who basically just lives out in the middle of nowhere and survives off the land.  He has places to sit and relax and also food and drink that he offers to peregrinos as they walk by.  All of the food he gets by donation and if you want you can donate something,  too.  You can eat or drink  whatever you want and donate money if you want.  He believes in freedom and love for everyone.   An interesting guy.

After awhile, we came to this cross that overlooks the city of Astorga.  What a beautiful sight!  We are so looking forward to being in Astorga because it is our next free day!!

"Everything will be all right in the end... if it's not all right then it's not yet the end"

―from The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel

Stage 22 - Leon to San Martín del Camino

Where We Are Tonight: San Martín del Camino            Miles Hiked Today: 16.2 (26.1 km)

Miles Hiked Overall: 307.5 (494.9 km)                        Miles to Santiago: 177.5 (285.6 km)

Steps Taken Today:  45,811      

Blister Count: Pam has 2 kinda infected toes and.K just has issues on her right foot now

Spanish Word of the Day: perro (dog)

What We Learned Today: Going off the beaten path - even of you've taken over 40,000 steps that day - can be worth it.

Today we hiked out of Leon.   On our way out of town, we found perhaps the most famous peregrino statue.  He looked like he was finally getting some rest so we didn't disturb him.  When I see his thin little sandals I cant really complain about my feet.

 Leon is a fairly big town and it took us quite a while to get out of it and back into the countryside.   Finally some more beautiful flowers.

Did you realize that Madrid's soccer team won the European championship?  That's all they're talking about here!  I'm thinking that Spain should really pay me to live here during futbol season because clearly I bring them good luck.  Last time I was here, Spain won the World Cup!

There are many people assisting peregrinos nowadays, offering them many services.along the way.   I guess many people start the Camino in Leon.  It only get more crowded from here on out, everyone says.  The town of Sarrria is where the big influx will happen because that's where the last 100K starts.   I hear way more English now which is sad but it's all for the tourists.

We stayed at a wonderful hostel in San Martin.   It was off the beaten path which we usually try to avoid because it means additional walking, and when we were walking there at the end of the day we commented that it better be worth it, and it totally was.

"Dog" is the word of the day because this hostel had a great one named Cooper.   The Camino in the past has had a reputation for many vicious dogs along the way.  We've seen many dogs but most, along with every other animal we've seen, can hardly be bothered to give you a look.  Some, though,  have been great and made our day with their friendliness.

“Never give up.  When your heart becomes too tired just walk with your legs – but move on.”


―Paulo Coelho

Stage 21 - Mansilla de las Mulas to Leon

Where We Are Tonight: Leon                           Miles Hiked Today:  12.4 (20.0 km)

Miles Hiked Overall: 291.3 (468.8 km)              Miles to Santiago: 193.7 (311.7 km)

Steps Taken Today: 37.527                              Blister Count: Ugh!

Spanish Word of the Day: lluvia (rain)

What We Learned Today: You don't notice all the signs pointing to a particular destination until you develop an interest in that destination.   Karen (and family) were in Leon a few years ago.  At that time, they didn't notice all of the arrows, shells and even Camino de Santiago souvenir shops that line the streets...because it wasn't a part of their knowledge base.  How funny to see the same city through different eyes!

Today was a rather easy and pleasant day with cool temperatures for walking.   Until it started raining again...ugh!

 

We walked to the city of Leon today.  This is such a beautiful, old city.   The small streets and alleyways are so picturesque.   When we got near the main cathedral, we witnessed a parade.  They must be celebrating their patron saint and also first communion for many young children.

Our favorite new food is chocolate and churros!   The chocolate is very thick (for dipping) and if there is any left over,  it is the most decedent drink ever!

“You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough.”

―Unknown

Stage 20 - Bercianos del Real Camino to Mansilla de las Mulas

Where We Are Tonight:    Mansilla de las Mulas         Miles Hiked Today: 16.7 (26.8 km)

Miles Hiked Overall: 278.9 (448.8 km)                       Miles to Santiago: 206.1 (331.7 km)

Steps Taken Today:  46,146                                      Blister Count:too many to count

Spanish Word of the Day: podemos (we can).  We put this in as the word of the day because we saw it multiple times today written all over.  Spain is having general elections at the end of next month...so maybe it's a political thing?

What We Learned Today: When people realize we're from the US,  their very first reaction is to grill us on why we have a clown like Trump running for president or either they start laughing and ask when the joke is going to be over.  Just saying...we're the laughing stock of the world right now.

There's not much nice to say about this day.  It started out nice but soon got really cold.   And then it started pouring down rain and pouring down rain.  When you're out in the middle of nowhere, there's nothing to protect you against the elements.   There was even hail and thunder to top it off.  Our shoes were quickly soaked and the wet socks ended up giving us additional blisters.  It was just miserable.   Our albergue was very crowded and noisy and I ended up with a number of bites of some sort.   I could go on but I will spare you.

Here is Pam by some recently harvested crop.  It looks like yams or turnips or weird potatoes.

Here I am with my life-saving earbuds!

And our spacious accommodations.  Too tired to write more.

“If it doesn’t challenge you, it won’t change you."

―Unknown