Stage 23 - San Martín del Camino to Astorga

Where We Are Tonight:   Astorga                   Miles Hiked Today: 14.2 (22.8 km)

Miles Hiked Overall: 321.7 (517.7 km)            Miles to Santiago:  163.3 (262.8 km)

Steps Taken Today: 48,728                            Blister Count: same as yesterday

Spanish Word of the Day: sombra (shade)

What We Learned Today:  If it's good enough for Napoleon,  it's good enough for us.

It is rumored that Napoleon took this same route we're walking today during one of his many escapades to wreak havoc on the Spaniards.   He also perhaps stayed in the same hotel were staying in while in Astorga.  So we're channeling or inner Napoleon today!

Today was an interesting mixture of waking by the highway (which is loud and not as nice) and walking more in nature.

We walked for a time with a tour group from Australia.   Apart from the lively and fun conversation,  the best part was after awhile they said we should be in our way because they thought we were being held back by them.  They said, "You young girls look so fit!"  We got a good laugh out of that!   And we'll try to keep that in mind when we struggle with the next hill. 

We also met a guy who runs a place called La Casa de los Dioses.  He's an interesting guy who basically just lives out in the middle of nowhere and survives off the land.  He has places to sit and relax and also food and drink that he offers to peregrinos as they walk by.  All of the food he gets by donation and if you want you can donate something,  too.  You can eat or drink  whatever you want and donate money if you want.  He believes in freedom and love for everyone.   An interesting guy.

After awhile, we came to this cross that overlooks the city of Astorga.  What a beautiful sight!  We are so looking forward to being in Astorga because it is our next free day!!

"Everything will be all right in the end... if it's not all right then it's not yet the end"

―from The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel

Stage 22 - Leon to San Martín del Camino

Where We Are Tonight: San Martín del Camino            Miles Hiked Today: 16.2 (26.1 km)

Miles Hiked Overall: 307.5 (494.9 km)                        Miles to Santiago: 177.5 (285.6 km)

Steps Taken Today:  45,811      

Blister Count: Pam has 2 kinda infected toes and.K just has issues on her right foot now

Spanish Word of the Day: perro (dog)

What We Learned Today: Going off the beaten path - even of you've taken over 40,000 steps that day - can be worth it.

Today we hiked out of Leon.   On our way out of town, we found perhaps the most famous peregrino statue.  He looked like he was finally getting some rest so we didn't disturb him.  When I see his thin little sandals I cant really complain about my feet.

 Leon is a fairly big town and it took us quite a while to get out of it and back into the countryside.   Finally some more beautiful flowers.

Did you realize that Madrid's soccer team won the European championship?  That's all they're talking about here!  I'm thinking that Spain should really pay me to live here during futbol season because clearly I bring them good luck.  Last time I was here, Spain won the World Cup!

There are many people assisting peregrinos nowadays, offering them many services.along the way.   I guess many people start the Camino in Leon.  It only get more crowded from here on out, everyone says.  The town of Sarrria is where the big influx will happen because that's where the last 100K starts.   I hear way more English now which is sad but it's all for the tourists.

We stayed at a wonderful hostel in San Martin.   It was off the beaten path which we usually try to avoid because it means additional walking, and when we were walking there at the end of the day we commented that it better be worth it, and it totally was.

"Dog" is the word of the day because this hostel had a great one named Cooper.   The Camino in the past has had a reputation for many vicious dogs along the way.  We've seen many dogs but most, along with every other animal we've seen, can hardly be bothered to give you a look.  Some, though,  have been great and made our day with their friendliness.

“Never give up.  When your heart becomes too tired just walk with your legs – but move on.”


―Paulo Coelho

Stage 21 - Mansilla de las Mulas to Leon

Where We Are Tonight: Leon                           Miles Hiked Today:  12.4 (20.0 km)

Miles Hiked Overall: 291.3 (468.8 km)              Miles to Santiago: 193.7 (311.7 km)

Steps Taken Today: 37.527                              Blister Count: Ugh!

Spanish Word of the Day: lluvia (rain)

What We Learned Today: You don't notice all the signs pointing to a particular destination until you develop an interest in that destination.   Karen (and family) were in Leon a few years ago.  At that time, they didn't notice all of the arrows, shells and even Camino de Santiago souvenir shops that line the streets...because it wasn't a part of their knowledge base.  How funny to see the same city through different eyes!

Today was a rather easy and pleasant day with cool temperatures for walking.   Until it started raining again...ugh!

 

We walked to the city of Leon today.  This is such a beautiful, old city.   The small streets and alleyways are so picturesque.   When we got near the main cathedral, we witnessed a parade.  They must be celebrating their patron saint and also first communion for many young children.

Our favorite new food is chocolate and churros!   The chocolate is very thick (for dipping) and if there is any left over,  it is the most decedent drink ever!

“You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough.”

―Unknown

Stage 20 - Bercianos del Real Camino to Mansilla de las Mulas

Where We Are Tonight:    Mansilla de las Mulas         Miles Hiked Today: 16.7 (26.8 km)

Miles Hiked Overall: 278.9 (448.8 km)                       Miles to Santiago: 206.1 (331.7 km)

Steps Taken Today:  46,146                                      Blister Count:too many to count

Spanish Word of the Day: podemos (we can).  We put this in as the word of the day because we saw it multiple times today written all over.  Spain is having general elections at the end of next month...so maybe it's a political thing?

What We Learned Today: When people realize we're from the US,  their very first reaction is to grill us on why we have a clown like Trump running for president or either they start laughing and ask when the joke is going to be over.  Just saying...we're the laughing stock of the world right now.

There's not much nice to say about this day.  It started out nice but soon got really cold.   And then it started pouring down rain and pouring down rain.  When you're out in the middle of nowhere, there's nothing to protect you against the elements.   There was even hail and thunder to top it off.  Our shoes were quickly soaked and the wet socks ended up giving us additional blisters.  It was just miserable.   Our albergue was very crowded and noisy and I ended up with a number of bites of some sort.   I could go on but I will spare you.

Here is Pam by some recently harvested crop.  It looks like yams or turnips or weird potatoes.

Here I am with my life-saving earbuds!

And our spacious accommodations.  Too tired to write more.

“If it doesn’t challenge you, it won’t change you."

―Unknown

Stage 19 - Terradillos de los Templarios to Bercianos del Real Camino

Where We Are Tonight:   Bercianos del Real Camino        Miles Hiked Today:  14.6 (23.5 km)

Miles Hiked Overall:  262.2 (422.0 km)                             Miles to Santiago: 222.8 (358.5 km)

Steps Taken Today: 42, 795                                             Blister Count: It's better left unsaid

Spanish Word of the Day: dolor (pain)

What We Learned Today: A slice of citrus elevates the taste of any drink.

We started the day going through Moratinos.  There we saw these cool bodegas, which are little caves that people have carved into a hillside.  They were traditionally used for storage of food and wine.  People still occasionally use them now but many have been turned into party rooms.  This hillside had maybe 10 bodegas.

 

Then we walked through San Nicolas.  We were expecting to see Santa Claus or at least hear piped-in Christmas music but none of that appeared.  As we were walking out of town, we did see a Renault Elf car, though!

Then we traveled through the bigger town of Sahagun.  This town, like so many others on the Camino,  is a place I will need to come back to someday and really discover all it has to offer.

Pam can't figure out where her third Coke of the day has gone!

“Walking is the only form of transportation in which a man proceeds erect - like a man - on his own legs, under his own power. There is immense satisfaction in that.”

―Edward Abbey

Stage 18 - Carrión de los Condes to Terradillos de los Templarios

Where We Are Tonight: Terradillos de los Templarios      Miles Hiked Today: 16.3 (26.2 km)

Miles Hiked Overall: 247.6 (398.5 km)                         Miles to Santiago:  237.4 (382.0 km)

Steps Taken Today:      46,410      

Blister Count: P has 4 and a very swollen toe, K has blisters on her blisters

Spanish Word of the Day: piedras (rocks)

What We Learned Today: We were reminded of, why is it that the US is the only place that uses miles?

Today we officially reached the half way point!!  That's a little overwhelming to really think about - on one hand it was a big accomplishment, but on the other hand we still have the other half still to do.
 

We continued another 2.8 km past Lédigos to Terradillos de los Templarios

Today we walked the longest we ever had without any services  (17.2 K).  That was a long haul.  This is really Big Sky country...as far as the eye can see are fields and the biggest sky you can imagine. We've seen every kind and shape of clouds imaginable.

The photo of me below is of the beautiful weeds or wild flowers that are always on the sides of the Camino.   We decided to take this photo because I especially love the purple  ones - and I just happened to be wearing my purple shirt and socks.

When we got to the midpoint we had to celebrate with cokes and pizza.

Today we had a Keens day.  We both wore our Keens (heavy-duty sandal) in the hopes that wearing something different would help our feet issues...but to no avail.  Pam went back to her hiking shoes after the first couple of hours.  I wore mine all day but the many pointy rocks did wonders on my already sore feet.  Nothing good to report on this front.

Here we are at the end of the day at the albergue - at least we can still smile!

"It does not matter how slow you go so long as you do not stop."

―Confucius

Stage 17 - Frómista to Carrión de los Condes

Where We Are Tonight:  Carrión de los Condes         Miles Hiked Today:  12.0 ( 19.3 km)

Miles Hiked Overall:  231.3 (372.3 km)                     Miles to Santiago: 253.6  (408.2 km)

Steps Taken Today:  35,199                                     Blister Count:It's complicated

Spanish Word of the Day: cielo  (sky)

What We Learned Today:  Just when you think you've seen it all on the Camino,  you find something else that blows your mind.

Today's Camino ran right along side the main road...which was not very busy so not much car traffic.  The book called it "soul numbing" but I actually kinda liked it.  Instead of hours of nothing going on, at least the road traffic gave some entertainment at times.  I know true pilgrims are supposed to be thinking deep, enlightening thoughts during the quiet times but that's a stretch for me.  Either I don't so deep thoughts or I like to be entertained, I guess.

Today's high point came in the village of Villarmentero de Campos.  We wanted to stop for a drink but instead we found ourselves in the Camino's version of Disneyland.   There were numerous animals wandering around, there were multiple toys to play with (including hula hoops and hammocks),  walls for your graffiti enjoyment and multiple interesting places to spend the night (including a tipi and cement culverts.)  The craziness went on and on...what a fun place.  They had pizza and coca cola light for me which also helped to rank it among the Camino"s  top entertainment spots.

Pam and I also met a couple of new friends today, but they were a bit stiff..

We went into a Knights Templar church built around the 12th century.   The KT were quite big in this area at that time spreading their version of Christianity and helping to "protect" pilgrims on their way to Santiago.   It was a beautiful building.   Inside is a huge altar piece depicting the life of St. James.

Here I am doing the daily routing of getting my feet ready for the day...lotion, antibiotic cream, bandages and special band aids.  Pam does the same...as does everyone else in the albergue.   Almost every pilgrim you see or talk with has some (if not multiple) issues with their feet and other parts of their bodies.  But especially with their feet.  It's almost funny to see pilgrims at the end of the day without packs. ..they're doing what Pam and I like to call the Pilgrim Wiggle.  Not only do pilgrims walk differently without extra weight in their backs but at night they tend to their physical woes and then everyone is limping and walking tenderly.   It would be funny to watch if it weren't so sad.

"Only those who will risk going too far can possibly find out how far they can go."

―TS Eliot