Stage 8 - Logroño to Navarrete

Where We Are Tonight:  Navarrete                      Miles Hiked Today:  8.1 (13.0 km)

Miles Hiked Overall:  109.7 (176.5 km)               Miles to Santiago:  375.3 (604.0 km)

Steps Taken Today:  24.674                               Blister Count:  1 (P), 3 (K, all but 1 doing better)

Spanish Word of the Day:  pinchos (appetizers)

What We Learned Today:  Plan ahead - even though it's not always possible.

Since yesterday was so long and then very frustrating with the whole finding-a-bed fiasco, we decided to give ourselves a small break today.  Another reason to take it easier today is that K is having blister pain and P is having back pain.  So, we only walked a few miles to a cute little village called Navarrete.   

We actually had.some time to sit around, walk around the town a little and sit at a bar for dinner....which was AWESOME!  We don't get to play tourist very often on this trip.  At the bar, we decided to forgo the typical pilgrim menu, which consists, typically, of a starter like a salad or soup or pasta, a main dish of some meat and potatoes or veggies and then a dessert.  Spain is famous for its appetizers  (called pinchos in this part of Spain) so that's what we went for.  Below are the pictures of our 3-course meal.  FABULOUS!

We can add the following countries to the list where pilgrims we've met are from:  Great Britain, Venezuela,  Belgium and Singapore.   The cute little old man from Singapore stood at the top of a hill and cheered us on as we climbed up today.   At the top we thanked him for his support and we started talking.  When he asked us where we were from and we said, "Oregon", and his face lit up.  He said his daughter went to U of O and they both love it there.  He said,  "I love Oregon State Ducks!"  We straighten him up on that one small detail but that was way cool.

We see a lot of graffiti and some of it is even written for the pilgrims.  When we've had a particularly hard day we will try to keep the following sign in mind...

"Your soul knows the geography of your destiny and the map of your future. Trust this side of yourself. It will take you where you need to go but it will also teach you a kindness of rhythm in your journey"

― John O'Donohue

Stage 7 - Los Arcos to Logroño

Where We Are Tonight:  La Rioja (outside of Logroño)      Miles Hiked Today:  17.4 (28.0 km)

Miles Hiked Overall:  101.6 (163.5 km)                           Miles to Santiago:  383.4 (617.0 km)

Steps Taken Today: 52,413                                            Blister Count:  3 new (K)

Spanish Word of the Day: completo (full)

What We Learned Today:  Is the true Camino experience over?

Today we were out nearly 10 hours.   The hiking was through mostly beautiful country side with specular views.  We are also noticing mosquito now and we both have a couple bites.  (At least we're hoping it's mosquito bites and not bed bugs!)  We passed the 100 mile mark today on out journey.   More than 20% of the way to our destination!

Perhaps the highlight of the day came in Viana, where we stumbled upon The Chill Cafe.   They had different cafe food there (even peanut butter!), candles going, and as promised,  a very chill atmosphere.   It was a wonderful break in the middle of a tough day.

What we meant by "is the true Camino experience over?" is that we came into this experience wanting to relax and take things as they come.  One example of that is accommodations for the night.   We wanted the "true" peregrino experience of walking and then when tired, checking into an albergue and not needing a reservation.  However, in this age of everyone having access to the internet, peregrinos are reserving accommodations ahead of time at pensions or hotels (you cannot reserve ahead of time at most albergues.)  This makes it, at least what we've found to be true, impossible to come into town late in the afternoon and find a place to sleep for the night.  Another problem is that the Camino continues to gain popularity and so more people are walking this year than ever before.  Combine that with the Pope's declaration of this year as a Year of Mercy and the Camino is simply PACKED!  That's all well and good but there simply aren't enough accommodations for everyone and that has been a huge frustration for us.  Even big albergues are full...and then what to do?   We cannot walk for hours each day and then have to spend more hours finding a bed.  We've had to take to reserving ahead of time now for beds (and spending more money since most will not be at albergues) and it's been a huge frustration and time consumer.

"Few people know how to take a walk. The qualifications are endurance, plain clothes, old shoes, an eye for nature, good humor, vast curiosity, good speech, good silence and nothing too much...."

―Ralph Waldo Emerson

Stage 6 - Estela to Los Arcos

Where We Are Tonight:  Los Arcos                 Miles Hiked Today:  13.5 (21.8 km)

Miles Hiked Overall:  84.2 (135.5 km)             Miles to Santiago:  400.8 (645.0 km)

Steps Taken Today: 41,861                             Blister Count:  0 new

Spanish Word of the Day: zumo de naranja (orange juice)...always freshly squeezed!

What We Learned Today:  Don't just walk on by the church.  If it's open, go inside; it's worth it.

It's an interesting phenomenon that albergues want you gone pretty early in the morning,  but it's too early for stores to be open to buy food for breakfast.  That hasn't been a big problem;  we just walk to the next village and by then something is open and we can get our coffee, fruit and something substantial to tide us over until we need more food.  It's fun because these cafes are filled with peregrinos catching each other up on the state of their feet, how they slept, and other important peregrino business.  Another interesting phenomenon is that peregrino information offices (found in bigger cities to help you find lodging) close very early in the day...when we are still walking in the Camino!  That just makes no sense.  We've yet to arrive anywhere near time to take advantage of this.

Today, before we even had our first cup of coffee,  we came to one of the most exciting attractions on the Camino....el Fuente de Vino (the wine fountain) at Irache!  This area, Navarra, is well known for its awesome wine production and one Bodega is generous enough to provide a fountain of their product to fortify peregrinos for their walk.  I filled up my shell with wine like peregrinos used to do.

I (K) have a rip in my pack and one in my fanny pack.  I brought along some duct tape for situations just like this.  It looks like the repair on my pack will hold up for awhile but my fanny pack is trashed.  I really need to find another one because it holds all of the necessities that I continually need (like my credencial) so I don't have to rummage around in my big pack.

We can now add Greece, Palestine,  and Guadalupe to the list of places where peregrinos we've met are from.  We've only met 2 people from the US so far - one from California and one from New Mexico.   There are rumors that there is a couple from Portland but we've yet to meet them.

The last photo is of small snails.  We've noticed a few people going through the brush along side the road collecting these snails.   And I thought they were only crazy enough to eat snails in France!

"For me there is only the traveling on paths that have heart, on any path that may have heart, and the only worthwhile challenge is to traverse its full length--and there I travel looking, looking breathlessly."

―Carlos Castaneda

Editor note:   Yesterday Karen described a bit about the environment at the albergues, including the loud snoring and other horrible noises that people make during the night.  Her biggest fear was not being able to sleep.  The Camino is exhausting enough with a good nights rest, and close to impossible if you can't sleep.  So, I outfitted Karen with a pair of Bose noise canceling ear buds, and downloaded a 10 minute audio clip of rain that she can play in a continuous loop on her iPod nano.  Karen days that this has "SAVED MY LIFE!"

Stage 5 - Puente la Reina to Estela

Where We Are Tonight:  Estela                       Miles Hiked Today:  13.7 (22.0 km)

Miles Hiked Overall:  70.6 (113.7 km)              Miles to Santiago:  414.3 (666.8 km)

Steps Taken Today: 40,805                             Blister Count:  2 - both mostly healed!

Spanish Word of the Day: baño (bathroom) as in  ¿dónde está el baño?

What We Learned Today: When you buy better sunscreen because you got fried the day before, it will pour down rain all day!

We spent some time in Puente La Reina this morning finding a pharmacy and getting some really strong sunscreen ...and then ironically we walked in the rain for most of the day.   We experienced some massive downpours and even thunder.   It's hard to keep a positive outlook when you're freezing and completely soaked!

Just to continue the talk of the arrows from yesterday, we came across the best arrow yet.  I had to risk my life (since it was in the middle of the road!) but it was worth it!

Today's walk was quite pretty, going through gently rolling farmland and vineyards.   We also saw a lot of olive trees.   We are seeing a slight change in scenery and vegetation, including seeing a couple cacti and palm trees.   This area is well known for its wine and the vineyards look beautiful!

Pam is the pilgrim hiking with the neon green rain cover on her pack

When we got to Estella,  we picked a place to stay like we usually do in our exhausted state:  we went into the first one we saw.  Here is a photo of our room we share with about 35 others.  Tonight only cost  €7 but we've had albergues charge up to €12.  Everything in albergues is co-ed.  There is usually a kitchen where pilgrims can make their own meals, plus places to hang up washing, showers and toilets.  Rooms are usually huge and filled with bunk beds that were designed for young children (hard for old people to get in and out of!).   The only thing the albergue offers is a tissue paper-like bottom sheet and pillow case that is thrown away in the morning.The noise at night is ABSOLUTELY INCREDIBLE. ..and I don't mean that in a nice way.  The noises some people make is amazing...and disgustingly loud.

This was not an especially hard day but both of us are so worn out that we're even skipping dinner in order to get more sleep.  Buenas noches!

In addition to the yellow arrows, you will see scallop shells on the Camino route.  The scallop shell is the symbol of the Camino de Santiago. It has mythical and metaphorical meanings as well as practical uses.  One version of the myth about the origin of the symbol concern the death of Saint James, who was martyred by beheading in Jerusalem in 44 AD.  The story goes that after James' death, his disciples shipped his body to the Iberian Peninsula to be buried in what is now Santiago. Off the coast of Spain a heavy storm hit the ship, and the body was lost to the ocean. After some time, however, the body washed ashore undamaged, covered in scallops.  The scallop shell also acts as a metaphor. The grooves in the shell, which come together at a single point, represent the various routes pilgrims traveled, eventually arriving at a single destination: the tomb of James in Santiago de Compostela.  The practical use of the shell for early travelers was that it was the right size for gathering water to drink or for eating out of as a makeshift bowl.  The symbol of the shell is often seen along the trail, on posts and signs.

Most pilgrims also carry a shell with them on their journey.  We received our shells in a blessing ceremony back at home at a meeting of the Portlandia chapter of the American Pilgrims on the Camino.  The purpose of this organization is to keep members connected to the Camino and to introduce new people to the phenomenon.  Before I left home I got my toe nails painted in a Camino theme.  When I thought I had a blister yesterday, I took off my socks and shoes. ..and I instantly had an audience of admirers!   I knew Camino  people would appreciate it!

"Develop an interest in life as you see it; the people, things, literature, music - the world is so rich, simply throbbing with rich treasures, beautiful souls and interesting people. Forget yourself.”

― Henry Miller

Stage 4 - Pamplona to Puente la Reina

Where We Are Tonight:  Puente la Reina                  Miles Hiked Today:  14.6 (23.5 km)

Miles Hiked Overall:  57.0 (91.7 km)                        Miles to Santiago:  428.0 (688.8 km)

Steps Taken Today: 42,876                                      Blister Count:  2 (K)

Spanish Word of the Day: sol (sun)

What We Learned Today: Do not wash your shoes in the toilet!  (A sign seen at the albergue.)

Today we were out about 8 hours.  We hiked out of Pamplona and back into the countryside and small villages.

We hiked to the top of a hill full of wind turbines and a very popular pilgrim statue.  I've read about this and seen photos of it so many times and it was so exciting to see it in person!

 Pam eating a typical pilgrim breakfast: cafe con leche, a cheese sandwich, something sweet and orange juice.

The Camino for most of the day was through beautiful fields.  The colors are so intense and lovely.

Today we can add Korea and Canada to our list of places from where we've met pilgrims.

We also learned that applying sunscreen 2 times is not enough in one day for the intense Spanish sun.  We ended the day quite crispy and red.  We made it into a town this afternoon and we decided we needed a real hotel instead of a hostel so I actually have internet that works well!!

"You don't choose a life, you live one" 

Emilio Estevez in The Way

Stage 3 - Zubiri to Pamplona

Where We Are Tonight:  Pamplona                    Miles Hiked Today:  13.5 (21,7 km)

Miles Hiked Overall:  42.4 (68.2 km)                 Miles to Santiago:  442.6 (712.3 km)

Steps Taken Today: 41,355                               Blister Count:  0

Spanish Word of the Day: caballo (horse)

What We Learned Today: We need affirmation and when we get it,  it's a good thing.

Today we walked about 7 1/2 hours.  We didn't start until pretty late because after our good fortune of having lots of space to do laundry, we came back from dinner to find it had rained while we were gone and our clothes that were hanging out were soaked.  So luckily the pension had a hair dryer and we spent part of the morning trying to dry our clothes.  Wet clothes and a backpack don't really mix....but since we couldn't really get them dry, I attached one wet thing at a time to the back of my backpack and dried them that way.

See stage 2 map for first 5.5 km hiked today

We walked by an interesting old building.  We saw some guy outside so we went to talk with him.  It turns out he is somewhat of an anthropologist who is spending his life now renovating an old abbey.   The building was once a fort,  they believe, but they have found evidence that is was turned into a church in the 13th century.   The old altar was stolen a few years ago unfortunately,  but that let them see an alter that was painted on the wall.centuries ago.  That was very cool.

The Camino took us through beautiful farmland again today.   Pam was particularly excited to see all of the horses.   We've also seen cows, sheep, chickens and a few dogs and cats.

We learned of an alternative route for the final push into Pamplona.   We decided to take it since it went along the river and was so pretty.  However, it didn't have all the pretty common Camino arrows for us, pointing us in the right direction.   Every once in a while we'd see an arrow but then for a long time we'd walk and walk and see nothing and so we'd start to get worried we had lost the path.  Finally we met backup with the Camino and the arrows and we could breathe easy as we walked through Pamplona.   That's why we say affirmation is good because we really have come to rely on the yellow arrows to keep us pointed in the right direction!

All along the Camino the route is marked with bright yellow arrows.  These are the work of Don Elías (1929-1989) who was the parish priest in O Cebreiro in Lugo and studied the history of the St James Way pilgrimage to Santiago in depth.  In 1984 made it his mission to revitalize the Camino.  He formed groups to restore and maintain the trails, and he personally went and painted yellow arrows along the trail at crossroads and places where people might potentially go the wrong way.  He also traveled extensively in Europe promoting the Camino and how important it was for people to make this pilgrimage.  Today there are still many simple spray painted arrows, but there are also arrows in bright ceramic tiles and other media as well.  Without all the arrows we would have been soooo lost.  He was a genius!  Now you know the significance of the yellow arrow on the right side of the blog.

When we got into Pamplona,  we were exhausted, of course, and so were so happy to see an albergue.  Just as we were walking up to the front door, a woman jumps out of a taxi with her bag, runs inside and snags the last bed!  So that was a bummer!  We walked and walked to the next albergue and just as we were turning onto the street of the albergue we could see a few other pilgrims heading that way in a hurry. ..so not to be outdone again we jogged (it's hard to actually run with heavy packs! ) up the street and got there before them to secure a bed...yea!   I will explain about albergues in another post.

It's too bad we didn't have the energy to explore Pamplona more...it's a beautiful city.  I will definitely have to go back there, hopefully for the running of the bulls!

"There are many things in life that will catch your eye but few that catch your heart, pursue those."

Unknown

Stage 2 - Roncesvalles to Zubiri

Where We Are Tonight:  Zubiri                       Miles Hiked Today:  13.4 (21.5 km)

Miles Hiked Overall:  28.9 (46.5 km)              Miles to Santiago:  456.1 (734.0 km)

Steps Taken Today:  41,997                           Blister Count:  0

Spanish Word of the Day:  cafe con leche (coffee with milk) - what we must have to start the day

What We Learned Today:  For every down hill (or easier) part of the Camino there is an even bigger uphill!

After such an amazingly hard day yesterday, I'm surprised we could actually get up!  But we did.  We hiked for 8 1/2 hours which included some food stops, rest breaks and photo stops.  After our first day experience we were happy to not have the long continuous uphill slog.   There was still lots of uphill and downhill on this stage, but at least it was intermixed, with a net loss in elevation of 420 m (1380 feet) over the 21.5 km (13.4 miles) to Zubiri.

Today reminded us of many of our training hikes.  Since we hiked all through last winter in preparation for this, we ended up hiking through some pretty rough conditions...and we had them all again today.  We seem to be drawn to unmaintained, wet, slippery and muddy paths!  And then when it started to rain,we felt right at home!  Also like Oregon, we walked through beautiful forested areas, lush and green and full of slugs.  Spring flowers are blooming everywhere.

We have already come across a number of different shrines erected for pilgrims who have died along the way.

When we arrived in Zubiri walking like drunks on our rubbery legs, we found a cute little pension for the night.  Even a couple days on the camino has given us immense appreciation for things like sharing a bathroom with only 10 others, our own room and a lush cotton towel.   And since we weren't able to do laundry the night before, we were happily surprised to find ample space to hang out our laundry!

So far we've talked with pilgrims from the following countries: Germany, the Netherlands,  Ireland, USA,  Spain,  France, Italy,  Scotland, Sweden, Brazil and Australia!