Sunday, June 12, 2016

Stage 34 - Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela

Where We Are Tonight:  Santiago de Compostela            Miles Hiked Today:  12.6 (20.3 km)

Miles Hiked Overall:  484.0 (779.0 km)                              Miles to Santiago: 0.0 (0.0 km)

Steps Taken Today:  41,142        

Blister Count: Who cares now?  Our feet can only get better from now on!

Spanish Word of the Day: Compostela  (certificate you get for officially completing the Camino)

What We Learned Today:  Getting up early to go to mass in Santiago at noon is worth it!



Today was the big day!  We've walked nearly 1.5 million steps and 500 miles to get here.  We've put up with rain, wind, and blazing sun.   We've slept in some interesting places and washed out clothes every night.  We've met friends from all over the world and tried some food we didn't know even existed.  We walked through so many small villages and accepted "Buen Camino" from hundreds of peregrinos.   And it all led to this exciting moment...


WE ARE IN SANTIAGO!!!!!!!!

It all started early.   We were on the road, walking by 5:50.  We figured we needed to leave that early in order to get to Santiago in time for the special Sunday Pilgrim Mass at noon.  The cathedral has seats for 1000 but we had to stand.   Pilgrims from different parts of the world said prayers and read from the Bible in their own languages.  They read off a list of where pilgrims who arrived that day were from and it was amazing.   The best part, though, was at the very end when they had 6 attendants swing the giant incense burner, called a botafumiero, across the entire cathedral.   (It was used years ago as a way to fumigate the sweaty and perhaps disease-ridden pilgrims.)  That was really special to witness and made it real for us that we had actually made it!




After mass, we were exhausted.  We found our hotel, had some lunch and then waited for Theresa to arrive.  (Pam and family had sponsored this college young woman from Germany a few years ago and since they were on the same continent,  she decided to come visit.)  The rest of the evening was spent having dinner and catching up.
Editor note:  Karen and Pam's Camino is complete, but if you are interested please visit the blog again for some after the Camino reflections that will be added, as well as photos and updates on their "recovery time" in Italy.  

Why Walk the Camino de Santiago

Because of the Santiagos: the saint and the city
Because of the rhythm of walking.
Because of the laughter … and the tears.
For the adventure of it.
For the joy.
To find yourself.
To lose yourself.
To go looking for God, whatever God might be.
Or not, if that’s not your journey.
Because whatever you believe or don’t believe, it’s nice to have clear guidance: just follow the yellow arrows and you’ll be all right.
Or use a map and leave the arrows. 
Any road to Santiago de Compostela is a Camino de Santiago.
To immerse yourself in history and culture.
To meet other pilgrims of all ages and backgrounds and nationalities.
To experience the kindness of strangers, and get a chance to lend a helping hand.
To start a day not knowing where it will end, and then another. 
And another. 
Because old architecture.
Because cafe con leche.
Because fresh grapes and fresh figs and fresh blackberries.
Just because.
To have your sins forgiven.
To hug the apostle.
To learn another language.
To walk over mountains.
To meditate or pray.
Because cheap wine.
Because you see a place differently when you walk to it and through it.
Because, even if you’re too hot, or too cold, or your feet hurt, or your back hurts, you feel alive.
Because it’s nice to be in shape … eventually. 
The day you feel like you can fly is worth every moment of slogging up hills.
And let’s be honest: because you can eat as much chocolate as you like and still lose weight.
To live another life, just for a while.
To appreciate the little things of “normal” life, like feet that don’t hurt and non-dorm rooms and washing machines.
To be part of something that’s huge in time and space.
To say thank you.
For the journey.
For the stories.
For candles and stained glass and statues.
For the arrival in Santiago or Finisterre.
Because friendship.
Because movement.
Because pilgrims.
Because it’s there.

Done!  Complete!!  Finished!!!   We did it!!!!  Exhausted!!!!!

Saturday, June 11, 2016

Stage 33 - Ribadiso da Baixo to Pedrouzo

Where We Are Tonight: Pedrouzo                  Miles Hiked Today: 13.4 (21.5 km)

Miles Hiked Overall:  471.4 (758.7 km)          Miles to Santiago: 13.5  (20.3 km)

Steps Taken Today:  40,084                          Blister Count: feet need a break in Italy soon

Spanish Word of the Day: maƱana (tomorrow)

What We Learned Today: When some Spanish peregrinos tell you you have to follow tradition and drink a Peregrina brand beer when you get to a certain spot on the Camino, don't worry that it's only 11 in the morning or that you just  took a break less than 5 minutes before.  Go for it and enjoy tradition!




Today was crazy.  Everyone walking the Camino has just this day and tomorrow...AND THEN WE'RE THERE!   The excitement and anticipation are palpable!   Here we are drinking those Peregrina beers. 



And Santiago has its own cake.  This is one example of how it can look.  The more traditional way has powdered sugar on top with a shape of the cross left untouched. 


The foliage is spectacular along with the flowers.  There is everything from pine trees to palm trees.  This is my favorite...flowers growing in the base of the palm tree.


And my favorite new flower is gigantic!   It's probably 15 feet high with tiny purple flowers all over it.  Today we also saw wild hydrangeas, calla lilies, and azaleas.



One more day to go!!!!

"The traveler sees what he sees; the tourist sees what he has come to see". 

―Gilbert K. Chesterton

Friday, June 10, 2016

Stage 32 - Palas de Rei to Ribadiso da Baixo

Where We Are Tonight:   Ribadiso da Baixo           Miles Hiked Today: 16.2 (26.0 km)

Miles Hiked Overall:  458.1 (737.2 km)                  Miles to Santiago: 26.2 (41.8 km)

Steps Taken Today:  47,898        

Blister Count:  K's are mostly healed...can't say the same for P.

Spanish Word of the Day:  vaca (cow)

What We Learned Today:  Be careful when you party with Irish people...you just might be at it all night.



We are getting close to the end!!  Today we saw the first road sign pointing to Santiago!  It can't be far now. 

The wildflowers continue to be abundant.  Some are new to us and others are just new to our Camino.   We continue to love to stop and photograph and smell them all.


Another sign that were getting closer to Santiago is that there are more depictions and statues of St. James all over.   Here he is on the altar of a small church. 


Today we saw our first burro carrying equipment for a peregrino.  I guess that's done occasionally but I think it would be difficult.   Especially since everyone had to stop and pet him!  Besides the obvious waking and biking, the only other possible way you can do the Camino officially is on horseback.   Although we've seen plenty of evidence of horses, we've only seen them carry peregrinos once; to the top of O Ceberio, a steep mountain.  (By the way, we wanted to do this but all of the horses were rented out the day we got there.  Pam was really bummed.)

We are now walking through beautiful forests of Eucalyptus trees.  It smells so wonderful!


Along the path today, we came upon this man cooking octopus.   It is still eaten everywhere around here.


We had the best night chatting away with fellow pilgrims and new friends.  We came from all parts of the world and spoken different languages at times but we had the best evening together.  There was storytelling,  singing, eating ad such wonderful camaraderie.   And then the local cows came through the festivities on their way to get milked .  Just another typical Camino evening.


2 more days to go!!

"The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page." 

―St Augustine

Thursday, June 9, 2016

Stage 31 - Portomarin to Palas de Rei

Where We Are Tonight:  Palas de Rei                Miles Hiked Today: 15.2 (24.5 km)

Miles Hiked Overall: 441.9 (711.2 km)               Miles to Santiago:  43.1 (69.3 km)

Steps Taken Today:  45,264                              Blister Count: lots of bandages used...

Spanish Word of the Day: nubes (clouds)

What We Learned Today:  The closer we get to Santiago,  the more things cost. 




Today was another long day but we were very thankful for some clouds and a nice cool breeze that at times came to us and helped us get up the steep parts.  

The photo doesn't really show it well but there are so many people on the Camino now!  It's especially busy in the morning when everyone is heading out at the same time.   It's not necessarily bad, it's just a different experience to have so many bodies around and making noise.   Today we walked with a group of kids from Barcelona on a school trip and at least 2 bus loads of other groups.  The photo of me in the beautiful forest all by myself was taken much later in the day when we either outpaced or outlasted the newbies!



Because of all the peregrinos now on the Camino, there is tourist stuff all over, frequent bars/restaurants, and higher prices for everything.   We found a place for a snack this afternoon that was perhaps the most idyllic spot - shaded deck, comfy chairs, cold drinks and nobody else!  It was wonderful!



3 more days to go!!

"Somewhere between the start of the trail and the end is the mystery of why we walk."

―Anonymous

Wednesday, June 8, 2016

Stage 30 - Pintin to Portomarin

Where We Are Tonight:  Portomarin                Miles Hiked Today: 18.1 (29.1 km)

Miles Hiked Overall: 426.7 (686.7 km)            Miles to Santiago:  58.3 (93.8 km)

Steps Taken Today:  56,874        

Blister Count: Our feet just want this to be over

Spanish Word of the Day:  salida del sol (sunrise)

What We Learned Today:  Sometimes the longest route is the easiest route.

We hiked an additional 7.5k m from Pintin to Sarria at the start of the day



The day started off bright and early because we had a long day.  We even saw the sunrise!   It was a long, tough day...over 7 hours of actual walking today.


We walked through Sarrria this morning and we could see the new masses of people.   This is the village where you need to start if you're doing the last 100K...so we see many groups of people, many buses and lots of new faces.   People have joined the Camino at every location along the way but this is by far the biggest influx of people.


The walk today took us through beautiful fields (the old rock walls are amazing!), through some forested areas, and also some open paved areas.   When we got to Portomarin at the end of the day we actually had to climb nearly 80 steps up to the town!
  

We have walked by multiple cemeteries on the Camino.   They are always surrounded by a tall fence and usually gated shut so we've only been able to go into one. Most of them are filled with these small "houses," one per family.  I need to learn more about this to know what's exactly inside.   Sometimes it also looks like maybe there are different layers of graves, kinda like a mausoleum. 


The next photo is of grain keepers in fields.  It is elevated off the ground so no pesky animals can get in.  They are an interesting shape; tall, long and thin.  They all look alike in size and shape but some have decorations of the two ends.



We are officially in count down mode - 4 days to go!

"The use of traveling is to regulate imagination by reality, and instead of thinking how things maybe, to see them as they are." 

―Samuel Johnson. 

Tuesday, June 7, 2016

Stage 29 - Fonfria to Pintin

Where We Are Tonight:  Pintin                        Miles Hiked Today: 13.2 (21.2 km)

Miles Hiked Overall:  408.6 (657.6 km)            Miles to Santiago: 75.4  (121.4 km)

Steps Taken Today: 41,214                             Blister Count: see one of the photos from

Spanish Word of the Day: agua (water)

What We Learned Today: Always top off your water bottle because you cannot trust the guide book.



Here is a picture of Pam's feet.  She definitely wins the prize for Feet With the Most Issues!



 Today's walk was mostly pretty high in elevation and with beautiful views of the valley below.  Lots of sunscreen was used for the many open areas!


So the sun was shining fiercely in the sky all day...and that's when my guidebook decided to leave out a few important details.  We thought there were a few villages along the way (like it shows in the book) that would be able to give us water. ..but instead we had to go maybe 13K without any water!   We were a little worried because it is soooo hot and humid.  We finally reached our albergue and we drank many glasses of water before finding our bed.



We are so close to Santiago...only 5 days to go!!   Here was a sign during the day showing that we only had 136 km to go (85 miles).




“Nothing builds self-esteem and self-confidence like accomplishment.”

―Thomas Carlyle

Monday, June 6, 2016

Stage 28 - Vega de Valcarce to Fonfria

Where We Are Tonight:  Fonfria                      Miles Hiked Today:  14.4 (23.2 km)

Miles Hiked Overall:  395.4 (636.4 km)            Miles to Santiago:  89.5 (144.1 km)

Steps Taken Today: 45,517                             Blister Count:  hmmmmm....

Spanish Word of the Day:  queso  (cheese)

What We Learned Today:  Eat all the queso con miel  (cheese with honey) that you can...it's FABULOUS! 



As we came through a small village today,  this was the traffic jam we saw.



We are back into mountains big time now. This is the view from atop one ridge.  It is so beautiful!   It feels like you can see forever. 



The climb up to the famed O'Cebreiro town was tough!   It was very steep and rocky and unrelenting.   And it was very hot and humid...in fact, I was quite wet when I got to the top.  There we came across this sign saying we are finally in Galacia,  our last province we will go through on the Camino.   That is quite an.accomplishment!   Everyone was shouting in joy that we made it this far!



Once in the town, we had a celebratory lunch to commemorate the fact that we had made it to the "top."  (We thought that this town was the top of the mountain and all the books also state this,  but they lied.  We still had a LOT more uphill to climb but we didn't know it at the time.)  We celebrated with a huge lunch of home-made chorizo (sausage), empanadas (pastry with a meat and vegetable concoction), vino tinto (red wine) from the region,  pan (bread), and the best queso con miel....which is now my very favorite food ever!  



Queso con miel is so good that we had it for dinner, too, when we got to Fonfria.   We saw the cows that made the cheese walk back to the barn from the fields as we were eating!   Their barn is directly across the street from our albergue.   Many people around here sell fresh honey..so that was local and fresh as well.

“Nothing is impossible, the word itself says, "I'M POSSIBLE".”

―Audrey Hepburn