Monday, June 27, 2016

Camino reflections

Hello all, 

Thank you so much for reading the blog and for cheering us along the way!  It meant a lot that you were with us in spirit.   

People who have walked the Camino say that it takes a long time to fully process the experience and all that it can teach a person.  However,  I will now attempt to write about a few of the lessons learned as I wrap up this blog.  Pam and I have spent a lot of time talking about our reflections and while we agree on most everything, I won't put words in her mouth...so I take full credit for the following words. 

1.  We take so much for granted in our privileged lives.  From running water to a clean bathroom to a cold drink on a hot day,  we are so spoiled and I, for one, know I don't appreciate it as much as I should.  The Camino was tough but we still had it so much easier than pilgrims did centuries and even years ago. The beauty of traveling is being taken out of that comfort zone and seeing how well you fare.  The hope is that we can remember how beautiful our life and living conditions are when we're not on the Camino. 

2.  It's amazing to be a part of history.   So many people have walked the Camino over the centuries it's mind-boggling.  In Spain alone there have been wars, plagues and civil unrest during these years and yet people have still have the need to walk this pilgrimage and honor St. James for the last 12 centuries.   I am humbled and honored to have been a part of it and to walk on such hallowed ground.

3.  There are so many places I need to re-visit....this time by car!  We walked through so many beautiful villages and fascinating bigger towns that still need to be discovered.  We simply didn't have the energy to do it when we were there...sleeping sounded better.   I wish I could have gone to more church services and special occasions like monks chanting but here simply wasn't enough time in the day.  I know there a lot left for me to experience.

4.  I'm wondering if there is anyone left in Ireland...they all seem to be on the Camino!   While all of Europe knows of the Camino, it shares a particularly strong bond with Ireland and the Celts.  This relationship stems from the time when the Celts lived and ruled in this area.  Some Spanish traditions and every day things like music are still heavily influenced by the Celts...all of which I didn't know about before.  I think about every other person we met in the Camino was Irish.  There were also many Germans!

5.  Never miss an opportunity to have dinner with fellow peregrinos.   Meeting the people along the way was the BEST part of the journey and having dinner with them was always a fun and enjoyable experience.  Walking with them and learning of their life for a little while was awesome, too.  The greatest lesson here is that every time you meet someone you must be fully present and in the moment with them, appreciating them to the fullest, because they could walk a different pace than you tomorrow and you may never see them again.   Seeing friends again after a couple weeks is the most wonderful experience...but you never know. Peregrinos share an instant and tight bond...and it's a beautiful thing.

6.  Pulpo (octupus) is not my favorite. 

7.  Hikers all over the world lie.  My husband is a prime example.  He loves to hike and torture himself on mountains and so when you ask, "How far do you think it is to our destination?" he'll always respond with, "Oh, it's just around that corner" regardless of the fact that's it's over 2 mountain ranges and you have to ford a river before you get to said corner.  It's no different with true hikers from all over the world.   They love the sport of hiking and so it's all beautiful and lovely to them and so don't understand that you need a true answer to your "How far is the next village?" or "Are there any hills coming up?"   We encountered numerous signs that completely displayed conflicting mileage to the same location...and our guidebook provided a third number.  Our guidebook also stirred us wrong by saying there were places to get water when there wasn't anything there or by (oooppps!) forgetting to mention a couple fairly big hills.  Hikers, in their euphoria, lie.

8.  You can pass huge amounts of time while walking by counting (Pam counted "1, 2, 3 ,4" over and over, Karen counted to 1,000 over and over),  listening to the sound effects of the backpack, talking each other or fellow peregrinos and singing every song known to Humankind. 

9.  It's really amazing how little you need to survive.  Life for 36 days fit in a backpack.  Nobody says that walking the Camino is the same as real life, but how much extra stuff do we have in our lives?  (I must admit I NEED lots of books and scrap booking stuff...)

10.  Being flexible is the name of the game.  You never knew what to expect, really, while walking the Camino.   Where will I get my next bottle of water?  What will they have to eat at the next stop ?  How many hills will we climb today?   What will be albergue be like tonight?   I was (pretty much) always sure it would work out bit your attitude needs to be open for it to all work out.   Travelling anywhere is always different than home; that's why you do it.

11.  Take one step at a time.  Break up the seemingly overwhelming parts into smaller, manageable bits and it's easier to swallow.

12.  Enjoy every awesome moment...because tomorrow could be raining, you can get blisters,  or there could be bed bugs.

13.  The Camino is way more than a physical challenge.  It tests mental and emotional strength...to the limit sometimes. 

14.  Pilgrim's Favorite Items (and this is just a start):  duct tape, ibuprofen (Spain sells 600mg!), earplugs,  walking sticks, cafe con leche, fresh OJ and water fountains. 

15.  Don't check into the first albergue in town just because you're exhausted;  it could be scary and there could be a nicer one just down the street.   (We know this from experience.)

16.  Watch where you walk.   Spain has a lot of cows and sheep and horses that walk the same path.  But also remember to look up and stop to look behind you every once and awhile.  The views can be amazing!

17.  History repeats itself...and we don't seem to learn from our mistakes.   There are multiple examples of this but here's one:  in Santiago, there is a church with beautiful bells in the steeple.  At some point in history,  the Muslims from Northern Africa attacked the town and destroyed quite a bit of the people and the town.  They wanted the bells, however, so they turned the Spaniards into slaves and had them carry the bells down south.  After a few years,  the Spaniards gained some ground in the fight and recaptured the bells.  Forgetting how horrible life was when the tables were turned, they destroyed the Muslim towns and turned the people into slaves to bring the bells back north.  You can call it "an eye for an eye" or say that's how it's done in war, but I think it's stupid.  History is full of destruction and yet we repeat the same mistakes.  When will we learn?

18.  No bano...no buy!   Or, if you don't have a bathroom we can use,  we will buy our snack or drink at a place that does.  Bathrooms on the Camino are at a premium...we have to take advantage when we find one and we can't afford to use our money at a place with no bathroom.

19.  Spain makes great pinchos!  The peregrino menu is ok but if you can get pinchos (small bites of food, full of interesting and flavorful combinations of the most amazing food), go for it!

21.  Life is a journey, not a destination.   Just keep walking!

22.  Pain, blisters, and bad days will fade away, but the experience (and the photos) never will.

Wow!  That's my list for now.  Thank you so much for your support.   Enjoy your summer!

Karen 

Here are some final stats from our adventure and blog:

Total distance walked: 484 miles (779 km), not including extra walking around towns or diversions along the trail to see other sites

Total steps taken:  1,470,315

Averages:  14.2 miles (22.9 km) and 42,732 steps over the 34 days spent hiking

People have read the blog from some interesting countries.  Many we know someone from that country that had the blog link, or someone who was traveling there, but others are mysteries, like the 9 views from Saudi Arabia.  Here is a partial list of where people have read the blog from:
Argentina, Brazil, Canada, Cayman Islands, China, France, Germany, Italy, Latvia, Mexico, Romania, Russia, Saudi Arabia, Spain, Sweden, Ukraine, United States, Venezuela
Not sure why you would care, but I guess a professional developer might care that 46% of the views used Chrome as the browser, 29% Safari, 6% Firebox, and a bunch of <5% browsers.  Likewise, 26% of people were using some flavor of Windows, 20% Android, 18% used an IPhone, ... and about 1% used Linux.

We will close this out with a couple of quotes:
"To journey without being changed is to be a nomad.To change without journeying is to be a chameleon.To journey and to be transformed by the journey is to be a pilgrim."






Friday, June 24, 2016

Cinque Terre

After Venice, our plans in Italy were to go to Cinque Terre, and then to Florence.  We spent 5 days in Cinque Terre, here are some highlight photos.













Sunday, June 19, 2016

Venice

After leaving Santiago we went to Venice Italy to be tourists and rest up from the Camino.  However, getting to Venice was a bit of an adventure.   Our flight arrived at 10:15 PM, and it took 4 hours to get to our hotel.   It was an adventure getting a water taxi, and ultimately having to wade through water in dark alleys to get to the hotel, arriving after 2 AM.  We thought all the hard work was done after we arrived in Santiago!   After getting some rest we had a fabulous time in Venice.  Here are some photo highlights.from the 4 days that we spent in Venice.

Next up:  Cinque Terre.















Wednesday, June 15, 2016

Santiago Tourists

Santiago is a wonderful and cute town.  Old town is spectacular!   Our hotel is a stone's thrown from the main plaza and cathedral.  All buildings are made of stone,  there are flowers everywhere and IT'S SO AWESOME TO BE A TOURIST!



This is a photo of the altar in the cathedral.   In the middle is a statue of St. James.   People are allowed to go behind the statue and give him a hug and thank him for a safe journey.  The remains of the real St. James are buried beneath this statue.

 

The next section below is photos from our trip to Finesterre.  Some pilgrims continue their walk from Santiago to the coast...but we chose to take a taxi!  :)   For those hiking it is another ~3 days (~50 miles, 80 km).


This place has special meaning for peregrinos and there are lots of small shrines and momentos from pilgrims.  It has been a tradition to burn clothes and/or shoes at this place.  That sounds wonderful (as I'd like to never see them again) but it's not exactly environmentally friendly...and we still need them for our continued travels.






Market day in Santiago!







Sunday, June 12, 2016

Stage 34 - Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela

Where We Are Tonight:  Santiago de Compostela            Miles Hiked Today:  12.6 (20.3 km)

Miles Hiked Overall:  484.0 (779.0 km)                              Miles to Santiago: 0.0 (0.0 km)

Steps Taken Today:  41,142        

Blister Count: Who cares now?  Our feet can only get better from now on!

Spanish Word of the Day: Compostela  (certificate you get for officially completing the Camino)

What We Learned Today:  Getting up early to go to mass in Santiago at noon is worth it!



Today was the big day!  We've walked nearly 1.5 million steps and 500 miles to get here.  We've put up with rain, wind, and blazing sun.   We've slept in some interesting places and washed out clothes every night.  We've met friends from all over the world and tried some food we didn't know even existed.  We walked through so many small villages and accepted "Buen Camino" from hundreds of peregrinos.   And it all led to this exciting moment...


WE ARE IN SANTIAGO!!!!!!!!

It all started early.   We were on the road, walking by 5:50.  We figured we needed to leave that early in order to get to Santiago in time for the special Sunday Pilgrim Mass at noon.  The cathedral has seats for 1000 but we had to stand.   Pilgrims from different parts of the world said prayers and read from the Bible in their own languages.  They read off a list of where pilgrims who arrived that day were from and it was amazing.   The best part, though, was at the very end when they had 6 attendants swing the giant incense burner, called a botafumiero, across the entire cathedral.   (It was used years ago as a way to fumigate the sweaty and perhaps disease-ridden pilgrims.)  That was really special to witness and made it real for us that we had actually made it!




After mass, we were exhausted.  We found our hotel, had some lunch and then waited for Theresa to arrive.  (Pam and family had sponsored this college young woman from Germany a few years ago and since they were on the same continent,  she decided to come visit.)  The rest of the evening was spent having dinner and catching up.
Editor note:  Karen and Pam's Camino is complete, but if you are interested please visit the blog again for some after the Camino reflections that will be added, as well as photos and updates on their "recovery time" in Italy.  

Why Walk the Camino de Santiago

Because of the Santiagos: the saint and the city
Because of the rhythm of walking.
Because of the laughter … and the tears.
For the adventure of it.
For the joy.
To find yourself.
To lose yourself.
To go looking for God, whatever God might be.
Or not, if that’s not your journey.
Because whatever you believe or don’t believe, it’s nice to have clear guidance: just follow the yellow arrows and you’ll be all right.
Or use a map and leave the arrows. 
Any road to Santiago de Compostela is a Camino de Santiago.
To immerse yourself in history and culture.
To meet other pilgrims of all ages and backgrounds and nationalities.
To experience the kindness of strangers, and get a chance to lend a helping hand.
To start a day not knowing where it will end, and then another. 
And another. 
Because old architecture.
Because cafe con leche.
Because fresh grapes and fresh figs and fresh blackberries.
Just because.
To have your sins forgiven.
To hug the apostle.
To learn another language.
To walk over mountains.
To meditate or pray.
Because cheap wine.
Because you see a place differently when you walk to it and through it.
Because, even if you’re too hot, or too cold, or your feet hurt, or your back hurts, you feel alive.
Because it’s nice to be in shape … eventually. 
The day you feel like you can fly is worth every moment of slogging up hills.
And let’s be honest: because you can eat as much chocolate as you like and still lose weight.
To live another life, just for a while.
To appreciate the little things of “normal” life, like feet that don’t hurt and non-dorm rooms and washing machines.
To be part of something that’s huge in time and space.
To say thank you.
For the journey.
For the stories.
For candles and stained glass and statues.
For the arrival in Santiago or Finisterre.
Because friendship.
Because movement.
Because pilgrims.
Because it’s there.

Done!  Complete!!  Finished!!!   We did it!!!!  Exhausted!!!!!

Saturday, June 11, 2016

Stage 33 - Ribadiso da Baixo to Pedrouzo

Where We Are Tonight: Pedrouzo                  Miles Hiked Today: 13.4 (21.5 km)

Miles Hiked Overall:  471.4 (758.7 km)          Miles to Santiago: 13.5  (20.3 km)

Steps Taken Today:  40,084                          Blister Count: feet need a break in Italy soon

Spanish Word of the Day: maƱana (tomorrow)

What We Learned Today: When some Spanish peregrinos tell you you have to follow tradition and drink a Peregrina brand beer when you get to a certain spot on the Camino, don't worry that it's only 11 in the morning or that you just  took a break less than 5 minutes before.  Go for it and enjoy tradition!




Today was crazy.  Everyone walking the Camino has just this day and tomorrow...AND THEN WE'RE THERE!   The excitement and anticipation are palpable!   Here we are drinking those Peregrina beers. 



And Santiago has its own cake.  This is one example of how it can look.  The more traditional way has powdered sugar on top with a shape of the cross left untouched. 


The foliage is spectacular along with the flowers.  There is everything from pine trees to palm trees.  This is my favorite...flowers growing in the base of the palm tree.


And my favorite new flower is gigantic!   It's probably 15 feet high with tiny purple flowers all over it.  Today we also saw wild hydrangeas, calla lilies, and azaleas.



One more day to go!!!!

"The traveler sees what he sees; the tourist sees what he has come to see". 

―Gilbert K. Chesterton